How to Replace a Screen in a Laptop

!±8± How to Replace a Screen in a Laptop

Rough handling very easily damages a laptop screen. Before buying and changing the screen, you will want to make sure that it is definitely faulty. You may see cracks on the screen, a dark image, a flickering display, colors missing or no image whatsoever.

If the screen has cracks that may look like ink leaking from a spider's web, then someone has broken it, and a replacement will be necessary. However, other subtle faults can occur because of damage to the screens that are much harder to spot. You will need to undertake other tests and observations to decide whether the screen is, in fact, faulty or not, I will not be considering them in this article.

There are many types and sizes of laptop screens available. Although, you may consider fitting a different screen to your laptop, problems associated with screen resolution or the image not fully filling the display may occur. Therefore, it is always advisable to replace a screen with exactly the same make and model as the original one fitted by the manufacturer. You can always find these details on a bar code label on the reverse of the screen.

Removal of the screen is generally quite easy as you do not have to be too careful about damaging or scratching it, but before starting, you should remove the battery. Removal methods vary from one laptop model to another. However, you will generally find between 4 - 6 screws located behind rubber or plastic caps on the screen bezel. When removing the caps be careful not to lose or damage them, as you will need to replace them after the repair. Once the screws are removed you can remove the bezel; it is sometimes clipped, glued or both. So moderate pressure may be required. On some makes of laptop, notably the HP range, part of the upper palm rest must be removed before the lower part of the screen bezel can be fully removed.

The laptop screen is fixed to the lid hinges by 4 to 8 screws; you should remove them with a small cross point screwdriver. Lay the screen down and remove the connector linking it to the laptop. Usually, you will find sticky tape attached to this connector so remove this first and gently ease the connector from the screen. Try to pull the connector rather than the cable. If the screen is of the older type, there will be a second two-pin connector linking it to the inverter usually found at the bottom of the screen. Carefully remove this connection and you will now be able to remove the old screen from the laptop.

Installation of the new screen is the reverse of removal; however, you must take great care not to damage it. Here are a few tips to help. When connecting the screen data cable insure that you insert it evenly using gentle fingertip pressure. You can easily damage a screen if you apply pressure almost anywhere but especially where the electronic circuit board is located. Remember to replace the sticky tape pads as this stops the wire detaching from the connector. Never use force when replacing the bezel; it should easily clip back into place. Above all, make sure you do not crack or scratch the new screen.

Replacing a laptop screen is usually straightforward provided you have the correct tools and are very gently when handling and installing the new screen.

How to Replace a Screen in a Laptop

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Tripp Lite APS750 750W 12V DC to AC Inverter with Automatic Line-to-Battery 20-Amp Charger

!±8± Tripp Lite APS750 750W 12V DC to AC Inverter with Automatic Line-to-Battery 20-Amp Charger

Brand : Tripp Lite | Rate : | Price : $295.77
Post Date : Dec 26, 2011 19:01:05 | Usually ships in 24 hours

12V DC, 120V AC - 120V AC - Continuous Power:750W

• 750 watts continuous output power; up to 1500 watts instantaneous power
• Extended peak surge power handles heavy connected loads
• Auto-transfer switching option for battery backup (UPS) operation
• 2 AC outlets; rugged moisture-resistant polycarbonate housing
• 1-year warranty

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Fixing That Annoying Blinking Fluorescent Light

!±8± Fixing That Annoying Blinking Fluorescent Light

So now its time to roll up our sleeves and get to work. There are some very important guidelines to follow when doing electrical work:

-MAKE SURE THE POWER IS OFF AND THERE IS NO CHANCE OF IT ACCIDENTALLY BEING TURNED ON WHILE WORKING ON IT.
-Have all the materials you will need for your project. There is nothing worse than being half way in your project to find out you don't have everything you need.
-Have the right tool for the job your doing

Following our safety guide we need to turn the power off to the light. You can just turn the switch off to the light and that will remove power, but we need to make sure nobody will accidentally turn it on when your working on it. So find your fuse box or circuit panel and shut the breaker off as well. Look for breaker tags such as gen lighting, or lighting.

Now that we know we are safe to work on the fluorescent light here are the tools you will need:

-A fiberglass ladder (make sure it is fiberglass when working with electricity because fiberglass does not conduct electricity.)
-Lineman pliers
-Nut driver
-Wire strippers
-Voltage tester

Now that we have our tools we need to rule out some simple fixes. I have been on calls that I felt so bad charging a customer for something they easily could have done themselves. Number one thing to do is replace the bulb. Keep in mind there are two types most commonly found and they are T-12 and T-8. The T-12 is a fat tube and a T-8 is thin in circumference, that's the easiest way to figure out what it is. If your still not sure remove the bulb and look at the end of the tube and there will be a model number on it with either T-12 of T-8 in or around that area.

Ok, so we changed the bulb and it's not the fix. The problem most likely lies in the ballast. By removing the center cover we can access the ballast, you should see wire colors of black, red, blue, yellow, white and green. Before you remove anything you need to make sure you have the right type of ballast. Make sure the model numbers are the same and the type of ballast is the same. All newer fixtures use electronic ballasts, while older models might use rapid start, and magnetic type ballasts as some examples. We know we have the right ballast so what I do before I even remove the ballast is take the black and white wire from the ceiling box and remove it from the ballast without touching the bare copper and test them with your voltage tester to make absolute sure they are dead,cap each one with a wire nut, these wires are what give power to the ballast.

Look at the colors and where there connected to. I then cut the wires with my linesmans pliers after the wire nut. I do this because when you put the new ballast in it will have the same colored leads as the old one, so you can use it to help you reconnect the colors of wires to the light. After you cut the wires remove the ballast with your nut driver making sure not to lose that nut you will need it later!!! CAUTION: The ballast may be hot to the touch, put some gloves on or use a rag when handling the ballast. Install the new ballast by aligning it into the slots and the hole where the nut was. Simply fasten the nut down and the ballast should now be secured to the fixture. Now connect blue to blue, red to red, yellow to yellow using orange wire nuts. Next hook up the black wire being careful because this is your "HOT" wire to the black and the white to the white. One thing you need to do when connecting the wires is to make sure that you twist your wires together, do not just rely on the wire nut. If you do not twist your wires it could cause a fire by not having a good connection.

Place the cover back on the fixture, put some new lamps in and your done.

Turn the breaker back on at the panel, turn the switch on and let there be light. Now the bragging starts.

Fixing That Annoying Blinking Fluorescent Light

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The 2011-2016 Outlook for Micro-Inverters in Oceana

!±8±The 2011-2016 Outlook for Micro-Inverters in Oceana

Brand :
Rate :
Price : $325.00
Post Date : Dec 05, 2011 10:58:44
Available for download now

This econometric study covers the outlook for micro-inverters in Oceana. For each year reported, estimates are given for the latent demand, or potential industry earnings (P.I.E.), for the country in question (in millions of U.S. dollars), the percent share the country is of the region and of the globe. These comparative benchmarks allow the reader to quickly gauge a country vis-a-vis others. Using econometric models which project fundamental economic dynamics within each country and across countries, latent demand estimates are created. This report does not discuss the specific players in the market serving the latent demand, nor specific details at the product level. The study also does not consider short-term cyclicalities that might affect realized sales. The study, therefore, is strategic in nature, taking an aggregate and long-run view, irrespective of the players or products involved.

This study does not report actual sales data (which are simply unavailable, in a comparable or consistent manner in virtually all of the countries in Oceana). This study gives, however, my estimates for the latent demand, or the P.I.E. for micro-inverters in Oceana. It also shows how the P.I.E. is divided across the national markets of Oceana. For each country, I also show my estimates of how the P.I.E. grows over time (positive or negative growth). In order to make these estimates, a multi-stage methodology was employed that is often taught in courses on international strategic planning at graduate schools of business.

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